Jasmine, pineapple, bergamote and lemon curd, roiboos tea and hops. Delicate and rounded cup.
Bolivia has an interesting coffee history and although it was exporting close to 85,000 bags in the early 2000, Bolivian coffees almost disappeared at the end of the last decade. In 2017, only 20,000 bags were exported. A tiny portion of these were sold as Specialty grade. The reasons for this are multiple but the main one was the coffee rust that hit the coffee regions very hard and decimated many farms. After that big loss, and after the decision of the government to allow the production of coca in some districts of Bolivia, many producers decide to start growing coca leaves (the base ingredient in the preparation of cocaine) instead of coffee. Coca is a lot more profitable than coffee per hectare and you can harvest it about 5 times a year which gives income to the producers and their family throughout the year. A lot of the coffee in the country has been traditionally grown under organic conditions. However, the lack of knowledge and training led to farms that look completely more like forest with coffee trees that carry very few leaves and even less cherries. Many of the producers think that organic farming means: not to do anything in your parcel than harvesting. That also contributed to the big drop in production. It’s therefore very difficult to find Specialty coffees from Bolivia these days.
Bolivian coffee harvest runs from April (below 1,000 masl) to October (up to 2,000 masl). Caranavi known as the capital of coffee is located in the lush forest of the Yungas region. This is where the famous Death Road follows the Andes Mountains from the dry Altiplano to the lush green forest of the Amazon jungle. All the exportable products from the region have to travel this treacherous road to be processed and exported from La Paz. In the 50s’ the government gave parcels of 10 hectares of tropical land to people and as a consequence, many people moved to Caranavi region and became farmers. This unique region has two climates and is home to the most fertile soil and consequently where the majority of coffee in Bolivia is produced nowadays. However, producers only plant 2 to 4 hectares of their plots with coffee trees, the rest remaining wild forest. Every Wednesday in Caranavi is market day and people come in from their small communities to buy basic goods to stock up for the week; it is also the main place to sell recently harvested coffee. This coffee is commercial grade and is sold as a ‘honey’: pulped but not dry to one first middleman. The traditional supply chain structure in Bolivian includes many middlemen until the coffee gets exported and selling their coffee to the Wednesday market in Caranavi is most of the time the only option for producers to sell their commercial crop. The NYC price does not have much impact on the national trade as Bolivia isolated itself from the international market. The Caranavi market level is the one dictating prices in the whole region if not in the whole country
AGRICAFE:Agricafe is owned by the Rodriguez family (our partner there since 2016) who started this business in 1986. At that time, the family used to rent wet mills in Caranavi region, buying cherries from 2,000 producers and in 2001 they built their current wet mill, called Buena Vista, in Caranavi. Very quickly a dry mill in la Paz was built and the family started exporting operations. In 2012, a few years after the national drop of production, they decided to buy land and start farming as well. They now have 8 farms in Caranavi region (60 ha) and 5 farms in Samaipata region (60 ha). This year, they have lost 2ha of farm in Samaipata because of heavy rains leading to landslides. Up to 300 people are working for the company at the peak season. They also hire agronomists from different countries as consultants every year. They produce coffee, process it at the wet mill then dry mill and export it themselves directly to us. They bet on a great vertical integration system to shorten the supply chain and make it more transparent and cost efficient. In 2019, the won the SCA Sustainability award in the category ‘Best Sustainable Business Model’.Aside from experimenting a lot on the processing, the family is also investing a lot in agronomy research doing some trials with grafting and using different varieties (over 50). After a few years now they realised that the best results in the cup/field were given by Java and Geisha grafted on Robusta root systems. They are therefore already renovating some of their parcels with these plants.
An oenologist from Argentina is managing the wet mill this season and they are experimenting yeast use in processing. The naturals and honeys (honeys are only prepared upon demand) dry on beds for a week before they are placed into mechanical dryers that recreate day/night light to ensure a low and consistent drying without rain issues. More beds have been built this year; every single bed has its own tunnel with plastic sheet to cover in case of rain. Although it rained a lot before the harvest (7,000 mm instead of usual 2,500mm), the weather during the harvest has been really good and it’s been easier to produce naturals this year. When they reached 12% MC and after a few hours of resting, all coffee is bagged with Ecotact and Jute/plastic bags and sent to the dry mill in La Paz with sample bags on the side. The lots sit there in parchment until they are prepared for export. After milling, cupping and after making sure the moisture content is around 11%, the coffee is bagged in Ecotact and jute bags before being exported through Arica port in Chile.
This lot is a yellow honey lot of Caturra from Trapiche farm, located in Samaipata region.
The farms are located between 1,500 and 1,650 masl with native trees shade and patches of wild forest to help conserve the biodiversity in the farms.
After floating the cherries, they have been mechanically washed and part of the pulp was removed. Then the sticky parchment and leftover pulp was moved to drying beds for the entire drying time, until it reached 12% of moisture content. The coffee is moved very regularly to allow a consistent drying, especially at midday when the outdoor temperatures go high.